Simmern in the Hunsrück

In the place where the catchment basin of the Simmerbach River has formed a large depression ('Simmerbach Mulde') over thousands of years, lies the administrative center of Simmern, once capital of a principality by the same name. This principality was founded in 1410 by the Count Palatine Stephan (1410-1459) of the house of Wittelsbach, which politically joined the estates in the Electoral Palatinate to the Hunsrück region, with Simmern as the administrative center. Emperor Ludwig of Bavaria had already given the town its charter in 1330, at a time when the territorial discord of Hunsrück had reached its peak. This, on the one hand, was due to the Counts of Sponheim who owned properties on the Nahe and Mosel Rivers and wanted to cement their ties through the rule of Kirchberg, Gemünden, Koppenstein and Kastellaun. On the other hand, there were the very expansive politics of the Trier Electorate and archiepiscopal seat under Archbishop Balduin of Luxemburg (1307-1354), as well as the active efforts of the Count Palatines from the Electoral Palatinate to create a position of power in the center of Hunsrück. The heyday of the newly created principality lasted more than 250 years, until, finally, the Thirty Years War and the War of the Palatinate in the year 1689, when the town, together with its medieval fortress, was almost completely destroyed, leaving just a few houses. The "new castle" was built in the years 1708-1713 in the classicistic style: a simple main building with two parallel wings that were elongated in front. Originally conceived of as the official residence for the Palatine head bailiff, the new castle was later used as a garrison, school and a court. Today the Rhine-Hunsrück archive resides here, along with a library and the Hunsrück Museum, where the special features, history, and culture of the region are documented.

Among the sights worth seeing in the town, of special note is the three-nave, Late Gothic Stephan Church ('Stephanskirche') from the year 1486, with highly artistic tombstone monuments, and the parish church St. Josef, which has an important ceiling painting by Francesco Bernardini and a Stumm organ from the year 1753. St. Josef lies in the immediate vicinity of the late Carmelite Monastery, which was founded in 1703. The landmark of Simmern, however, is Schinderhannes Tower. It was a corner tower of the city wall, built between 1320 and 1330. For over 300 years it served as a "powder tower" for storing powder and all types of war equipment. In 1680, it was made into a prison with a ground floor that had neither windows nor doors. A few years later, along with a few other buildings in town, Schinderhannes Tower survived the great fire of 1689, wholly undamaged. In 1750, it finally got its steep, conical roof of today. It was here that the robber chief Schinderhannes was kept prisoner for six months between 26 February 1799 and 19 August 1799, until he managed a spectacular escape. From 1930 to 1972, the tower served as a youth hostel. Today, there are comfortably furnished rooms where anyone can have parties and celebrations —naturally, provided they pre-book.

In Roman times, in Simmern and the surrounding area, there existed a whole row of estates. No wonder, since Simmern lies directly on the old Roman road "Via Ausonia", which passes through Hunsrück and connected Mainz to Trier. Today the old Roman road makes it easy to plan walking tours with the starting point in Simmern. How would it be, for example, to take the following day tour? From Simmern walk to Nunkirche Church near Sargenroth. Here we can already make out Hunsrück Cathedral near Ravengiersburg in the distance, which we will reach at lunchtime. After lunch, continue on to Kauerbach Stream and the village of Rödern, where we reach the "Via Ausonia". Passing over the Roman road, it is then a good hour until we again return to the starting point. Alternatively, one can get to Ravengiersburg from Nunkirche Church, and cross the low creek valley to Wildburghöhe (629 m). The return journey is along Kohlweg trail to Simmernkopf (653 m), and from there on to Simmern —an adventure in any weather!

A picture book worth looking at: Werner Unfug, Simmern und seine Nachbarn;Leipzig: Stadt-Bild-Verlag, 1997
For further information: Karl Faller, Der Schinderhannesturm in Simmern; Böhmer, Simmern, 2. Auflage 1992

Lonely forests, peaceful creek valleys, and protected moors are the distinguishing features of Idarwald mountain range, a quartzite ridge whose two highest points are An den zwei Steinen (766 m) and Idarkopf (746 m). It is not only the extensive stretches of untouched nature that fascinates visitors and draws them from near and far. The "German Gem Road" from Idar-Oberstein leads through such picturesque places as Herrstein, Schauren, and Allenbach into the heart of the region. Relaxation, enjoyment of nature and the landscape, looking for minerals, and getting enthusiastic about the manufacture and processing of gemstones —all this can be combined here in the most pleasant way. What should also not be overlooked are distinct traces of a very old cultural landscape, whose roots reach far back into prehistoric times, which can be found everywhere. The reconstructed Celtic 'Altburg' fortress near Bundenbach or the 'Belginum' archaeological park near Morbach allow you to experience this era up close. The only castle surrounded by water in Hunsrück is located near Morbach and reminds us of the Trier Archbishop and Elector Balduin von Luxemburg, one of the greatest protagonists of the Middle Ages in Hunsrück.

• Idar-Oberstein
• The Gallic-Roman burial mound near Siesbach
• Allenbach
• Pilgrimage Church Heiligenbösch
• Wildenburg Mountain near Kempfeld
• Schauren
• Stipshausen
• Herrstein
• Rhaunen at the foot of Idarkopf
• On Idarkopf Mountain
• The Reconstructed Celtic 'Altburg' Fortress near Bundenbach
• Morbach with Baldenau Castle and the ancient settlement 'Belginum'
• Ringskopf (650 m) with the Celtic walled grounds

A picture book worth looking at: Uwe Anhäuser, Heimat am Idarwald; VG Rhaunen, 2001
Hiking guides: Wolfgang Bartels, Hunsrück; DuMont Buchverlag, 1996 und Norbert Forsch, Hunsrück; Deutscher Wanderverlag, 2000

The Hochwald with its dense forests surrounding the 818 meter high Erbeskopf (the highest mountain west of the Rhine in Germany) is a fertile source of sagas and heroic tales. Many researchers of local history suspect that here in this pristine area of the Hunsrück plays one of the central scenes of the medieval Nibelungenlied.

In this place, according to the saga, Hagen von Tronje slew the noble hero Siegfried at the behest of Brunhilde. In fact, Drohnecken castle at the foot of Erbeskopf mountain is thought to be a possible family seat of Hagen von Tronje. Hagen's friend Hunold is thought to come from the nearby Hunolstein castle. Moreover, the towns of Worms and Alzey —the most important locations in the Nibelungenlied— are little more than a day ride on horseback from the Hunsrück mountain range.

• Birkenfeld
• The museum at Birkenfeld
• Hermeskeil
• Thalfang and Dhronecken castle
• 'Berger Wacken' and Hunolstein castle
• Wildflowers of the Hunsrück
• Erbeskopf
• The "Hunnenring" on the Dollberg (620 m)
• Züsch at the Primstal reservoir
• The source of the Nahe near Selbach
• Lake of Bostal

A picture book worth looking at: Uwe Anhäuser, Heimat am Idarwald; VG Rhaunen, 2001
Hiking Guides: Wolfgang Bartels, Hunsrück; DuMont Buchverlag, 1996 und Norbert Forsch, Hunsrück; Deutscher Wanderverlag, 2000

The Mosel river with its length of 545km, isn't even half as long as the Rhine. It has its source in the southern Vosges, from where it winds through the area of Trier in order to reach a branch of the Hunsrück.

From there, until it meets the Rhine at Koblenz, it flows through the deeply cut, winding valleys of the Rhenish slate mountains, creating a natural boundary at the north of the Hunsrück. The Mosel valley is an important wine growing area with famous names such as Bernkastel, Traben-Trarbach, Zell and Cochem.

• A little trip along the Mosel from Trier to Koblenz
• Trier
• Trittenheim —birthplace of Johannes Trithemius
• Bernkastel
• Nicolaus von Kues, philosopher of the ending Middle Ages
• Cusanusstift
• Traben-Trarbach
• Zell
• Historic cloister Marienburg
• Cochem
• Koblenz

Guide book: Reinhold Schommers, Mosel; DuMont Buchverlag, 2001

The Rhine has covered two thirds of its 1320 km long trip from the Swiss Alps (canton Graubünden) to the North Sea by the time it meets a branch of the Hunsrück near Bingen. Starting here, it flows through the slate mountains of the middle Rhine region. The traveler passes through a very narrow 300m deep ravine where the Hunsrück is a natural boundary. Then he traverses the fascinating landscape of Hunsrück on his way downstream.

Along this way he sees world famous places such as Bacharach, Kaub, or St. Goar with the overwhelming rock of Loreley. He sees Boppard with its impressive Rhine loop and picturesque Rhens. At Koblenz, at the mouth of the Mosel in the Rhine, he has reached the most northerly point of the branch of the Hunsrück. It isn't far from here and the Rhine widens, with all the narrows left behind. The low plains now determine the flow of the Rhine to the North Sea.

• A little trip from Bingen to Koblenz
• Bingen
• Bacharach
• Pfalzgrafenstein: the Pfalz in the Rhine
• Oberwesel
• St. Goar with Loreley
• Loreley and the 'Romantic Rhine'
• Boppard with the Rhine loop
• Rhens
• Koblenz

Hiking guide: Wolfgang Bartels, Hunsrück; DuMont Buchverlag, 1996 und Norbert Forsch, Hunsrück; Deutscher Wanderverlag, 2000

The region of the Nahe Valley-Hunsrück, the historic Nahegau, is divided into three administrative districts: to the east lies the district of Bad Kreuznach with its administrative seat in the city of Bad Kreuznach, to the north is the district of Rhein-Hunsrück with its administrative seat in Simmern, and to the west is the district of Birkenfeld with its administrative seat in the city of Birkenfeld. To the north there are also the districts of Cochem-Zell and Bernkastel-Wittlich bordering the Mosel river. Although the form these districts have today only dates from the administrative reform of the Rhineland-Pfalz region in 1969/1970, their origins can be found 200 years earlier. First under the French ruler Napoleon and then, after the reconstruction of Europe by the Viennese congress, under the Kingdom of Prussia. In fact, in the year 1798, under French rule (1798-1814), the feudal system with its class privilege, serfdom and drudgery was eliminated, and, to ensure the division of authority, administrative and judicial powers were separated. All religious faiths received equal rights, and in 1804 these rights were implemented by a unified code of law, the Napoleonic civil code (Code civile Napoléon). As a result of an act of the Viennese Congress, the final act of 9 June 1815, the Prussians were awarded the area north of the Nahe. On 14 May 1816, the "royal government" in Koblenz officially announced the newly formed "districts" as administrative units, so this date is considered the official "birthday" of these districts.

• District of Bad Kreuznach
• District of Rhein-Hunsrück (Simmern)
• District of Birkenfeld

It should be mentioned that the historical "Nahegau" only encompassed the eastern part of the District of Birkenfeld. The border ran along the Heimbach, a few kilometers west of Baumholder, along the Nahe up to Siesbach, just before Idar-Oberstein, along the Siesbach almost to the Erbeskopf, and from there over the ridge of the Idar forest to the Idarkopf. A look at the map here also shows that the mouth of the Nahe near Bingen (belonging to the district of Mainz-Bingen) and the northwestern part of Hunsrück (belonging to the districts of Cochem-Zell and Bernkastel-Wittlich) complete the region.

Along with the federal and state duties dictated, the district administration is also responsible for schools, social welfare, youth welfare offices, building development, land utilization, and fire protection. In addition, it deals with waste management as well as the maintenance of local streets. Above and beyond these central administrative tasks, the district also provides for the economic development of the community and region. In this respect, the expression "sustainability", as well as sustainable development, plays a central role, since its professed goal is to ensure the "continuance of a balance in the relationship between nature and its ability to regenerate, on the one hand, with its claims by humans, on the other". Alongside its obligatory duties, the district also takes on so-called "voluntary" duties, depending upon the tax income. Among these are the maintenance of adult evening classes, music schools, museums, theaters, sports fields, and swimming pools.