The Nunkirche in the Hunsrück

A few kilometers from Simmern, quite secluded and on a very exposed site above the village of Sargenroth, is the Romanesque Nunkirche, one of the landmarks of Hunsrück. Its name is probably derived from the medieval "Nuwe Kirche" (new church), which the townsfolk used to differentiate it from the churches in Simmern or Kirchberg. Built around the year 1000, Nunkirche was certainly a part of the long-term development plans of the politically-minded and very ambitious Archbishop Willigis von Mainz (975-1011), who, at the time, was putting a lot of energy into the development of the high-lying region of Hunsrück from the south. This was primarily to differentiate himself from the Trier Electors, who, at about the same time, began to spread their influence from the west, over the Mosel-Hunsrück region towards the Rhine. The frescos, as well as the paintings on the walls and vault of Nunkirche, dating from the 13th to 14th Centuries, are among the oldest in the Hunsrück region. From the medieval pilgrimage church, devoted to the holy Rochus, only the Romanesque tower has survived with its two stories, while the original third story was replaced by a spire with an unusually bent roof line. The nave was rebuilt in 1745. It was here that the regional law court of representatives ("Hundertschaftsgericht", "Hundgedinge") from the nearby Ravengiersburg Cloister met in the open air during medieval times.

Next to Nunkirche is the "Rochusfeld," one of the largest fields of orchards far and wide. For centuries, at the beginning of September, the cattle and flea markets were held here. Until a few decades ago, this "Nunkirche market" was still the most important folk festival for the entire Hunsrück region. Every year, during the first weeks of May, Rochusfeld is a splendor of colors ranging from deep red to violet; orchids of a special kind. It is the season of the Spotted Orchid ("Manns-Knabenkraut") with thousands of bright, radiant blooms. Would you like to take a look?

Nunkirche was considered to be the mother church of the nearby Ravengiersburg Cloister in the valley below, whose history is closely linked with the development of the parishes of Simmern and Kirchberg. Until the end of the Middle Ages, Ravengiersburg was one of the largest seignories (feudal lordships) in the region and so also had considerable influence on the development of one of the central areas of Hunsrück. The cloister church here, known as "Hunsrück Cathedral", with its mighty Romanesque double tower is a landmark that can be seen from afar. Its Baroque altar, 11 meters high, dates from 1722 and is one of the most beautiful in Hunsrück. The cloister was built from a fortress dating from the year 932. It is notable that the name "Hundesrucha" appeared for the first time in the foundation charter of the cloister in 1074. The name Ravengiersburg is attributed to the nobleman Rabangar, who built the original fortress on the steep rocks above the Simmerbach river.

A highly recommended route is the roughly one-hour hike from Nunkirche to Ravengiersbug; either the direct route or over the village of Belgweiler, where the way down from the village of Oppertshausen to Ravengiersburg allows you to experience the whole grandeur of Hunsrück Cathedral.

Lonely forests, peaceful creek valleys, and protected moors are the distinguishing features of Idarwald mountain range, a quartzite ridge whose two highest points are An den zwei Steinen (766 m) and Idarkopf (746 m). It is not only the extensive stretches of untouched nature that fascinates visitors and draws them from near and far. The "German Gem Road" from Idar-Oberstein leads through such picturesque places as Herrstein, Schauren, and Allenbach into the heart of the region. Relaxation, enjoyment of nature and the landscape, looking for minerals, and getting enthusiastic about the manufacture and processing of gemstones —all this can be combined here in the most pleasant way. What should also not be overlooked are distinct traces of a very old cultural landscape, whose roots reach far back into prehistoric times, which can be found everywhere. The reconstructed Celtic 'Altburg' fortress near Bundenbach or the 'Belginum' archaeological park near Morbach allow you to experience this era up close. The only castle surrounded by water in Hunsrück is located near Morbach and reminds us of the Trier Archbishop and Elector Balduin von Luxemburg, one of the greatest protagonists of the Middle Ages in Hunsrück.

• Idar-Oberstein
• The Gallic-Roman burial mound near Siesbach
• Allenbach
• Pilgrimage Church Heiligenbösch
• Wildenburg Mountain near Kempfeld
• Schauren
• Stipshausen
• Herrstein
• Rhaunen at the foot of Idarkopf
• On Idarkopf Mountain
• The Reconstructed Celtic 'Altburg' Fortress near Bundenbach
• Morbach with Baldenau Castle and the ancient settlement 'Belginum'
• Ringskopf (650 m) with the Celtic walled grounds

A picture book worth looking at: Uwe Anhäuser, Heimat am Idarwald; VG Rhaunen, 2001
Hiking guides: Wolfgang Bartels, Hunsrück; DuMont Buchverlag, 1996 und Norbert Forsch, Hunsrück; Deutscher Wanderverlag, 2000

The Hochwald with its dense forests surrounding the 818 meter high Erbeskopf (the highest mountain west of the Rhine in Germany) is a fertile source of sagas and heroic tales. Many researchers of local history suspect that here in this pristine area of the Hunsrück plays one of the central scenes of the medieval Nibelungenlied.

In this place, according to the saga, Hagen von Tronje slew the noble hero Siegfried at the behest of Brunhilde. In fact, Drohnecken castle at the foot of Erbeskopf mountain is thought to be a possible family seat of Hagen von Tronje. Hagen's friend Hunold is thought to come from the nearby Hunolstein castle. Moreover, the towns of Worms and Alzey —the most important locations in the Nibelungenlied— are little more than a day ride on horseback from the Hunsrück mountain range.

• Birkenfeld
• The museum at Birkenfeld
• Hermeskeil
• Thalfang and Dhronecken castle
• 'Berger Wacken' and Hunolstein castle
• Wildflowers of the Hunsrück
• Erbeskopf
• The "Hunnenring" on the Dollberg (620 m)
• Züsch at the Primstal reservoir
• The source of the Nahe near Selbach
• Lake of Bostal

A picture book worth looking at: Uwe Anhäuser, Heimat am Idarwald; VG Rhaunen, 2001
Hiking Guides: Wolfgang Bartels, Hunsrück; DuMont Buchverlag, 1996 und Norbert Forsch, Hunsrück; Deutscher Wanderverlag, 2000

The Mosel river with its length of 545km, isn't even half as long as the Rhine. It has its source in the southern Vosges, from where it winds through the area of Trier in order to reach a branch of the Hunsrück.

From there, until it meets the Rhine at Koblenz, it flows through the deeply cut, winding valleys of the Rhenish slate mountains, creating a natural boundary at the north of the Hunsrück. The Mosel valley is an important wine growing area with famous names such as Bernkastel, Traben-Trarbach, Zell and Cochem.

• A little trip along the Mosel from Trier to Koblenz
• Trier
• Trittenheim —birthplace of Johannes Trithemius
• Bernkastel
• Nicolaus von Kues, philosopher of the ending Middle Ages
• Cusanusstift
• Traben-Trarbach
• Zell
• Historic cloister Marienburg
• Cochem
• Koblenz

Guide book: Reinhold Schommers, Mosel; DuMont Buchverlag, 2001

The Rhine has covered two thirds of its 1320 km long trip from the Swiss Alps (canton Graubünden) to the North Sea by the time it meets a branch of the Hunsrück near Bingen. Starting here, it flows through the slate mountains of the middle Rhine region. The traveler passes through a very narrow 300m deep ravine where the Hunsrück is a natural boundary. Then he traverses the fascinating landscape of Hunsrück on his way downstream.

Along this way he sees world famous places such as Bacharach, Kaub, or St. Goar with the overwhelming rock of Loreley. He sees Boppard with its impressive Rhine loop and picturesque Rhens. At Koblenz, at the mouth of the Mosel in the Rhine, he has reached the most northerly point of the branch of the Hunsrück. It isn't far from here and the Rhine widens, with all the narrows left behind. The low plains now determine the flow of the Rhine to the North Sea.

• A little trip from Bingen to Koblenz
• Bingen
• Bacharach
• Pfalzgrafenstein: the Pfalz in the Rhine
• Oberwesel
• St. Goar with Loreley
• Loreley and the 'Romantic Rhine'
• Boppard with the Rhine loop
• Rhens
• Koblenz

Hiking guide: Wolfgang Bartels, Hunsrück; DuMont Buchverlag, 1996 und Norbert Forsch, Hunsrück; Deutscher Wanderverlag, 2000

The region of the Nahe Valley-Hunsrück, the historic Nahegau, is divided into three administrative districts: to the east lies the district of Bad Kreuznach with its administrative seat in the city of Bad Kreuznach, to the north is the district of Rhein-Hunsrück with its administrative seat in Simmern, and to the west is the district of Birkenfeld with its administrative seat in the city of Birkenfeld. To the north there are also the districts of Cochem-Zell and Bernkastel-Wittlich bordering the Mosel river. Although the form these districts have today only dates from the administrative reform of the Rhineland-Pfalz region in 1969/1970, their origins can be found 200 years earlier. First under the French ruler Napoleon and then, after the reconstruction of Europe by the Viennese congress, under the Kingdom of Prussia. In fact, in the year 1798, under French rule (1798-1814), the feudal system with its class privilege, serfdom and drudgery was eliminated, and, to ensure the division of authority, administrative and judicial powers were separated. All religious faiths received equal rights, and in 1804 these rights were implemented by a unified code of law, the Napoleonic civil code (Code civile Napoléon). As a result of an act of the Viennese Congress, the final act of 9 June 1815, the Prussians were awarded the area north of the Nahe. On 14 May 1816, the "royal government" in Koblenz officially announced the newly formed "districts" as administrative units, so this date is considered the official "birthday" of these districts.

• District of Bad Kreuznach
• District of Rhein-Hunsrück (Simmern)
• District of Birkenfeld

It should be mentioned that the historical "Nahegau" only encompassed the eastern part of the District of Birkenfeld. The border ran along the Heimbach, a few kilometers west of Baumholder, along the Nahe up to Siesbach, just before Idar-Oberstein, along the Siesbach almost to the Erbeskopf, and from there over the ridge of the Idar forest to the Idarkopf. A look at the map here also shows that the mouth of the Nahe near Bingen (belonging to the district of Mainz-Bingen) and the northwestern part of Hunsrück (belonging to the districts of Cochem-Zell and Bernkastel-Wittlich) complete the region.

Along with the federal and state duties dictated, the district administration is also responsible for schools, social welfare, youth welfare offices, building development, land utilization, and fire protection. In addition, it deals with waste management as well as the maintenance of local streets. Above and beyond these central administrative tasks, the district also provides for the economic development of the community and region. In this respect, the expression "sustainability", as well as sustainable development, plays a central role, since its professed goal is to ensure the "continuance of a balance in the relationship between nature and its ability to regenerate, on the one hand, with its claims by humans, on the other". Alongside its obligatory duties, the district also takes on so-called "voluntary" duties, depending upon the tax income. Among these are the maintenance of adult evening classes, music schools, museums, theaters, sports fields, and swimming pools.