Gemünden in the Hunsrück

When a hiker comes from Bad Sobernheim through the Entenpfuhl State Forest, passes by Trifthütte (a pasture hut and restaurant) and Alteburg Mountain, and arrives at the main ridge of the Soon forest, they are suddenly met with a breathtaking view over the Hunsrück plateau and down into the Simmerbach valley. In the valley below lies the little town of Gemünden with its numerous 17th and 18th Century half-timbered houses, which are worth seeing. A four-turreted castle towers above Gemünden, standing high above the houses on a rocky plateau. The four mighty turrets with their bulbous spires give the Baroque castle quite a distinctive and unique character. With good reason, Gemünden is called "the pearl of Hunsrück", with a city charter that dates from 1330. Between 1514 and 1540, the Lords of Schmidtburg Castle near Bundenbach in Hahnenbach Valley purchased the entire town, including its castle from the 12th Century, as part of the Sponheim legacy. A short time later, the center of Castle Gemünden arose in its present-day form. After being destroyed by French troops in the year 1689, its reconstruction took place between 1718 and 1724. A hundred years later, in the year 1815, the castle came into the possession of the baronial family of Salis-Soglio through the marriage of the last heir to Captain Anton von Salis-Soglio from the canton of Graubünden in Switzerland.

From the main ridge of Soon Forest, the path to Gemünden leads down into the valley passing near the ruins of Castle Koppenstein (553 m), around which a small settlement once stood (ca. 1330). Koppenstein numbers among the oldest properties of the Sponheim Counts in Hunsrück. Despite its strategically favorable position at the junction of the road that links the Nahe and the Mosel Rivers over the Soonwald main ridge, the castle and settlement were once again abandoned by the end of the 16th Century. This was due to adverse agricultural and climatic conditions. A further reason might have been the permanent lack of water. Yet what remains is certainly an unparalleled view from the keep of the ruined castle over the Hunsrück Heights.

A geological "learning path" in Gemünden leads through the 320-million-year-old, petrified Devonmeer (Devonian sea) in Hunsrück. Fossils from prehistoric plants and animals bear witness to a long ago past: the Devonian period with maritime flora and fauna from 350-405 million years ago, and the creation of Devon-taunus quartzite and Hunsrück slate 320 million years ago. The main area for this is the Kaiser quarry with its beautiful view over the little town. This slate quarry is famous for its abundance of fossils and the extraordinarily good condition they are in. Spectacular finds of classes of armored fish ("placoderms": plate-skinned), bony fish ("osteichthyes"), and jawless fish ("agnatha") in the 19th Century established the basis for the fame of this quarry. The findings here have added substantially to the list of the fauna from Hunsrück slate, and, above all, made possible a very exact age determination of the slate strata. In contrast, the characteristics of today's Hunsrück surface area are much younger and are the result of tectonic movements one million years ago, as well as weathering.

The Herrenberg slate quarry near Bundenbach is also worth a side trip. It is in the area of Rhaunen and has a large fossil collection of Hunsrück slate from the Devonian era.

Lonely forests, peaceful creek valleys, and protected moors are the distinguishing features of Idarwald mountain range, a quartzite ridge whose two highest points are An den zwei Steinen (766 m) and Idarkopf (746 m). It is not only the extensive stretches of untouched nature that fascinates visitors and draws them from near and far. The "German Gem Road" from Idar-Oberstein leads through such picturesque places as Herrstein, Schauren, and Allenbach into the heart of the region. Relaxation, enjoyment of nature and the landscape, looking for minerals, and getting enthusiastic about the manufacture and processing of gemstones —all this can be combined here in the most pleasant way. What should also not be overlooked are distinct traces of a very old cultural landscape, whose roots reach far back into prehistoric times, which can be found everywhere. The reconstructed Celtic 'Altburg' fortress near Bundenbach or the 'Belginum' archaeological park near Morbach allow you to experience this era up close. The only castle surrounded by water in Hunsrück is located near Morbach and reminds us of the Trier Archbishop and Elector Balduin von Luxemburg, one of the greatest protagonists of the Middle Ages in Hunsrück.

• Idar-Oberstein
• The Gallic-Roman burial mound near Siesbach
• Allenbach
• Pilgrimage Church Heiligenbösch
• Wildenburg Mountain near Kempfeld
• Schauren
• Stipshausen
• Herrstein
• Rhaunen at the foot of Idarkopf
• On Idarkopf Mountain
• The Reconstructed Celtic 'Altburg' Fortress near Bundenbach
• Morbach with Baldenau Castle and the ancient settlement 'Belginum'
• Ringskopf (650 m) with the Celtic walled grounds

A picture book worth looking at: Uwe Anhäuser, Heimat am Idarwald; VG Rhaunen, 2001
Hiking guides: Wolfgang Bartels, Hunsrück; DuMont Buchverlag, 1996 und Norbert Forsch, Hunsrück; Deutscher Wanderverlag, 2000

The Hochwald with its dense forests surrounding the 818 meter high Erbeskopf (the highest mountain west of the Rhine in Germany) is a fertile source of sagas and heroic tales. Many researchers of local history suspect that here in this pristine area of the Hunsrück plays one of the central scenes of the medieval Nibelungenlied.

In this place, according to the saga, Hagen von Tronje slew the noble hero Siegfried at the behest of Brunhilde. In fact, Drohnecken castle at the foot of Erbeskopf mountain is thought to be a possible family seat of Hagen von Tronje. Hagen's friend Hunold is thought to come from the nearby Hunolstein castle. Moreover, the towns of Worms and Alzey —the most important locations in the Nibelungenlied— are little more than a day ride on horseback from the Hunsrück mountain range.

• Birkenfeld
• The museum at Birkenfeld
• Hermeskeil
• Thalfang and Dhronecken castle
• 'Berger Wacken' and Hunolstein castle
• Wildflowers of the Hunsrück
• Erbeskopf
• The "Hunnenring" on the Dollberg (620 m)
• Züsch at the Primstal reservoir
• The source of the Nahe near Selbach
• Lake of Bostal

A picture book worth looking at: Uwe Anhäuser, Heimat am Idarwald; VG Rhaunen, 2001
Hiking Guides: Wolfgang Bartels, Hunsrück; DuMont Buchverlag, 1996 und Norbert Forsch, Hunsrück; Deutscher Wanderverlag, 2000

The Mosel river with its length of 545km, isn't even half as long as the Rhine. It has its source in the southern Vosges, from where it winds through the area of Trier in order to reach a branch of the Hunsrück.

From there, until it meets the Rhine at Koblenz, it flows through the deeply cut, winding valleys of the Rhenish slate mountains, creating a natural boundary at the north of the Hunsrück. The Mosel valley is an important wine growing area with famous names such as Bernkastel, Traben-Trarbach, Zell and Cochem.

• A little trip along the Mosel from Trier to Koblenz
• Trier
• Trittenheim —birthplace of Johannes Trithemius
• Bernkastel
• Nicolaus von Kues, philosopher of the ending Middle Ages
• Cusanusstift
• Traben-Trarbach
• Zell
• Historic cloister Marienburg
• Cochem
• Koblenz

Guide book: Reinhold Schommers, Mosel; DuMont Buchverlag, 2001

The Rhine has covered two thirds of its 1320 km long trip from the Swiss Alps (canton Graubünden) to the North Sea by the time it meets a branch of the Hunsrück near Bingen. Starting here, it flows through the slate mountains of the middle Rhine region. The traveler passes through a very narrow 300m deep ravine where the Hunsrück is a natural boundary. Then he traverses the fascinating landscape of Hunsrück on his way downstream.

Along this way he sees world famous places such as Bacharach, Kaub, or St. Goar with the overwhelming rock of Loreley. He sees Boppard with its impressive Rhine loop and picturesque Rhens. At Koblenz, at the mouth of the Mosel in the Rhine, he has reached the most northerly point of the branch of the Hunsrück. It isn't far from here and the Rhine widens, with all the narrows left behind. The low plains now determine the flow of the Rhine to the North Sea.

• A little trip from Bingen to Koblenz
• Bingen
• Bacharach
• Pfalzgrafenstein: the Pfalz in the Rhine
• Oberwesel
• St. Goar with Loreley
• Loreley and the 'Romantic Rhine'
• Boppard with the Rhine loop
• Rhens
• Koblenz

Hiking guide: Wolfgang Bartels, Hunsrück; DuMont Buchverlag, 1996 und Norbert Forsch, Hunsrück; Deutscher Wanderverlag, 2000

The region of the Nahe Valley-Hunsrück, the historic Nahegau, is divided into three administrative districts: to the east lies the district of Bad Kreuznach with its administrative seat in the city of Bad Kreuznach, to the north is the district of Rhein-Hunsrück with its administrative seat in Simmern, and to the west is the district of Birkenfeld with its administrative seat in the city of Birkenfeld. To the north there are also the districts of Cochem-Zell and Bernkastel-Wittlich bordering the Mosel river. Although the form these districts have today only dates from the administrative reform of the Rhineland-Pfalz region in 1969/1970, their origins can be found 200 years earlier. First under the French ruler Napoleon and then, after the reconstruction of Europe by the Viennese congress, under the Kingdom of Prussia. In fact, in the year 1798, under French rule (1798-1814), the feudal system with its class privilege, serfdom and drudgery was eliminated, and, to ensure the division of authority, administrative and judicial powers were separated. All religious faiths received equal rights, and in 1804 these rights were implemented by a unified code of law, the Napoleonic civil code (Code civile Napoléon). As a result of an act of the Viennese Congress, the final act of 9 June 1815, the Prussians were awarded the area north of the Nahe. On 14 May 1816, the "royal government" in Koblenz officially announced the newly formed "districts" as administrative units, so this date is considered the official "birthday" of these districts.

• District of Bad Kreuznach
• District of Rhein-Hunsrück (Simmern)
• District of Birkenfeld

It should be mentioned that the historical "Nahegau" only encompassed the eastern part of the District of Birkenfeld. The border ran along the Heimbach, a few kilometers west of Baumholder, along the Nahe up to Siesbach, just before Idar-Oberstein, along the Siesbach almost to the Erbeskopf, and from there over the ridge of the Idar forest to the Idarkopf. A look at the map here also shows that the mouth of the Nahe near Bingen (belonging to the district of Mainz-Bingen) and the northwestern part of Hunsrück (belonging to the districts of Cochem-Zell and Bernkastel-Wittlich) complete the region.

Along with the federal and state duties dictated, the district administration is also responsible for schools, social welfare, youth welfare offices, building development, land utilization, and fire protection. In addition, it deals with waste management as well as the maintenance of local streets. Above and beyond these central administrative tasks, the district also provides for the economic development of the community and region. In this respect, the expression "sustainability", as well as sustainable development, plays a central role, since its professed goal is to ensure the "continuance of a balance in the relationship between nature and its ability to regenerate, on the one hand, with its claims by humans, on the other". Alongside its obligatory duties, the district also takes on so-called "voluntary" duties, depending upon the tax income. Among these are the maintenance of adult evening classes, music schools, museums, theaters, sports fields, and swimming pools.